Dia de Los Muertos Terlingua, TX
Terlingua Dia de los Muertos: Where Desert Spirits Come Alive
Every year in early November, the tiny town of Terlingua, Texas, nestled against the rugged beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert and the Sierra Madre Mountains, transforms into a vibrant sanctuary honoring the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Unlike the bustling city celebrations, Terlingua offers a uniquely intimate and soulful experience that combines haunting desert landscapes with rich Southwestern culture and heartfelt remembrance.
Me at the cemetery the night before the celebration.
Big Bend National Park
A Celebration Rooted in Tradition and Desert Mystique
Terlingua’s Dia de los Muertos celebration is deeply infused with local traditions—drawing Creek, Mexican, and Anglo influences into a colorful tableau of altars, candles, and papel picado fluttering in the desert breeze. Altars (ofrendas) spring up on porches, in shops, and at the Terlingua Cemetery, honoring dearly departed loved ones with photos, marigolds, favorite foods, and handcrafted sugar skulls. As night falls, the desert air fills with the warm glow of flickering candles and the sounds of heartfelt music, weaving a spiritual tapestry that feels otherworldly.
A bonfire is started early evening.
Costumes and makeup are common.
What to Expect
Terlingua Cemetery Vigil: The heart of the celebration, where families gather around decorated graves, sharing stories, laughter, and tears. Visitors are invited to join, bearing their own memories or simply soaking up the soulful atmosphere.
Traditional Food and Drink: Savor authentic Mexican treats—from pan de muerto (special sweet bread) to tamales and aromatic Mexican hot chocolate. Local chili and Tex-Mex flavors add a spicy twist to the festivities.
Art and Music: Local artists showcase Dia de los Muertos-inspired works, and live music fills the air, making you want to dance under the starry desert sky.
Food was available potluck.
Music and dancing
My recent trip to Terlingua far exceeded my expectations. If you read about my first trip to this interesting destination, you already know there is so much to see and do there. It is NOT just another dusty West Texas town.
If you haven’t read about it or aren’t already familiar, I hope you are intrigued!
First, the trip was planned around the Dia de Los Muertos festival held on November 2nd. My husband and I fell in love with the area during our first trip in 2021 and we couldn’t wait to go back. The festival and cooler temperatures made the timing of the trip quite attractive.
Candles (tea lights) are placed on each grave.
“La Catrina” makeup
The Celebration
A bonfire is started late afternoon/early evening and it burns late into the night. A lot of people brought chairs and sat around the fire chatting, listening to music, watching the dancers, and basically hanging out with other locals and visitors. Eating, drinking, and meeting new people from all over the country is what you can expect. Everyone is so warm and friendly….you will feel very welcomed.
Molly Finnerty did my makeup which I absolutely LOVED! You can find her on Instagram under the name desert_chic. This year she set up on the Starlight Lounge Porch at noon but you will want to get in line early. There is a recommended donation and you can expect to be in the chair for at least 30 minutes. My friend Jennifer and I were fortunate to be the first ones but there were several others waiting by the time we were finished.
I placed my husband’s photo on the first altar.
One of three altars
Molly took the time to get to know me which seemed to influence how she did my makeup. She asked if I had any requests but, this being my first time, I didn’t really know what I wanted so I left it up to her. The time and effort she put into the makeup was well worth the time and money.
As night fell on the ghost town, people began going around placing and lighting candles on every single grave. Some of the graves no longer have legible name and dates so there’s no telling how old the oldest grave is. My guess is early 1900s since the Chisos Mining Company was established in 1903 however it is possible there are some even earlier than that.
The glow of the candles gives the cemetery a beautiful glow but not at all spooky as you might think. People mill about all over the cemetery looking at graves and chatting with each other. There were also a couple of locals “camped out” on the graves of their loved ones.
There are three white altars that are available for locals and visitors to put candles and photos of their loved ones. Candles are set up on the ground guiding those who walk up.
Big Bend National Park
Santa Elena Canyon
This trip was bittersweet for me. You see…..my husband passed away unexpectedly in 2022. We planned this trip together and were looking forward to it. He was supposed to be there observing the celebration with me. I never dreamed he would actually be included in it. The celebratory mood of the event soothed my aching heart and I left there feeling better emotionally. I like to think my husband was looking down and loved that I included him in it.
Accommodations
If you need a recommendation for a place to stay, I can tell you about three places. During the 2021 visit, my family and I stayed at Basecamp Terlingua and at Perry Mansion. We rented a 2-room bubble at Basecamp Terlingua for one night and then spent the rest of our time at the mansion in the La Fonda Suite. You can read more about those places in an article I wrote after the 2021 trip: Ghosts in a Texas Mining Town.
Day time view from the front.
View at night.
This time I stayed at Casa de Amigos which is conveniently located within the ghosts town. It has two bedrooms (one is a loft), living room, kitchen, and plenty of space for four people.
The kitchen was nicely furnished with anything you might need. I booked this place with my husband and daughter in mind but it was just me this time (kiddo went to camp instead). I loved this space!
The courtyard is very spacious!
Downstairs bedroom
Now for the kicker………..
I say kicker because, when I sent photos to my family (parents, aunt, and uncle) they all flipped out over the bathroom. You see, my family is NOT AT ALL adventurous so an outdoor bathroom was not even in the realm of possibility.
And trust me…..you don’t need to be adventurous to appreciate the bathroom. It was quite comfortable and a view of the starry sky while “taking care of business” is always welcomed by me.
The outdoor bath house
Bathroom at night
The rock wall is high enough that you have total privacy and the bathhouse was my favorite part. It has light and heat so you don’t have to worry about it being cold in there. If you are looking at my photo above of the toilet, the bath house is off screen to the left.
One last tidbit about this place: I thought this place had been built on the foundation of the original structure. As it turns out, this place was built using the ruins that existed on the property. The kitchen and downstairs bedroom are original and the rest was built up around it.
Well equipped kitchen
View from the bath house
This place is so GREAT and I cannot recommend it enough. Owners Jared and LaNetta reached out to make sure I had everything I needed and were super helpful with recommendations around town. I LOVE THIS PLACE!
Why Terlingua?
This isn’t your typical tourist carnival. Terlingua’s Dia de los Muertos feels like stepping into a living storybook—a place where history, nature, and the spirit world intermingle beneath endless stars. It’s perfect for travelers seeking meaningful connections, cultural richness, and a splash of desert magic with their dark tourism.
Travel Tips
Book accommodations early: rustic cabins, quirky inns, and cozy Airbnb spots fill up fast.
Dress in layers—the desert can turn chilly at night.
Bring a camera for stunning sunset shots, but also remember to live the moment without screens.
Respect the local customs and the intimate nature of the cemetery gatherings.
Well I hope this wasn’t too long winded for you but I have so much I can say about Terlingua. My friend Jennifer met me in Terlingua and we talked about maybe making this an annual thing. Yes, we loved it that much!
I hope you have some great trips planned for the remainder of the year! If you haven’t begun planning for the next year, I encourage you to reach out if you need some travel ideas. Please shot me an email or comment below!
Make this beautiful day count!
Annette